Tea is the clearest case, and the figures are not ambiguous. The number of
tea-growing households in Japan has fallen to about twenty thousand —
43% of the number in 2008 — and the
planted area to 75% of it. Around four in ten of the country's tea fields are
now more than thirty years old. For roughly three decades the price a grower
received barely moved while the cost of growing rose. Judged on the domestic
market alone, that industry was ending.
Then the rest of the world discovered matcha, and demand from outside Japan did
what no amount of effort inside Japan could have done. It made the work worth
doing again.
| Japanese tea exports | Value |
| 2023 | JPY 29.2 billion — a record at the time |
| 2024 | JPY 36.4 billion — clearing the national 2025 target a year early |
| Jan–Sep 2025 | JPY 45.4 billion — already past the whole of 2024 |
| 2030 target | JPY 81 billion — the national goal, raised in April 2025 |
Matcha now earns roughly 2.2 times the price of Japan's other green tea. Growers
began converting to tencha, the shaded leaf matcha is milled from.
Investment came back into processing. And the part that matters most happened —
successors appeared, and with them the
thing that had really gone missing: the wish to take the family's work on.
It is not solved. Tencha is still only about 7.3% of Japan's tea output, and
supply is not keeping up with the demand. But the direction reversed — and it
reversed because of buyers who do not live here.
This is why we do not describe ourselves as an export business. Exporting moves a
box from one country to another. What actually happened to matcha is that demand
from somewhere else gave a Japanese tradition a future, and gave the next
generation a reason to stay. That is the thing we are trying to repeat on purpose,
category by category, rather than leave to luck.
Sources — households, planted area, field age and the 2023 export figure:
Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries,
“Current State and Issues of the Tea Industry and Tea Culture”,
November 2024. Export values for 2024 and 2025, the 2030 target, the matcha price
ratio and the tencha share: House of Councillors Secretariat,
“Expanding Tea Exports — the state of and issues in the matcha supply system”,
Rippō to Chōsa No. 480, 2 December 2025. Both sources are in Japanese.